Mosque turned into a warehouse by Armenians, caravanserai used as a stable, enemy soldier's helmet, unknown monument - REPORTAGE - PHOTO - VIDEO
- 28 December 2020
We enter the inn. Armenians used this cultural monument as a barn, kept animals in its cells. The yard in the middle of the is full of with dung, grass presses have been collected on the second floor.
Despite the date of construction of the inn is mentioned as 1681, the architect is unknown.
The plan and architectural solution of the inn which is 37.70 m long and 23.67 meters wide, is symmetrical to the axis passing through the center and is subordinated to the general construction. It is clearly felt that special attention has been paid on volume-space solution. The inn with a rectangular solution in the plan consists of two large size hall, two small rooms in the right and left sides of the entry for guards, on the main side there are six square rooms for inn owners and merchants.
The doors of the rooms open to a small balcony. The balcony is decorated with two proportionately shapely stone columns and three semicircular arches that complete them from above. Stone stairs placed between the columns create connection between the general yard and balcony. As all the closed rooms of the inn placed in right, left and back sides, there is a roofless large yard in its center, it allowed caravans to spend the night here safely during the warmest months.
Transformation of the 4-century-old mosque built by Haji Giyasaddin into a warehouse
There is another building above the hill, on the rock. Initially it reminds of Albanian temple. Usually, as in Albanian temples, the stones differ from white stones of the inn, looks like red.
There is another collapsed building in front of the mosque. A big, large stone placed instead of cover. We lift the stone, it is impossible to know wheter it is a well or an underground room used for different purposes.
The 17th-century inn and mosque indicate that the village of Gargabazar has been located on important caravan routes since ancient times, or why build such a luxurious inn, in modern parlance, a "five-star" hotel in a remote area? The name of the village also gives ground to think so. “Gargha bazari” expression is usually used for very noisy places, "It's like a crow's market," they say.
There is also the expression “ the language of crow” in our language, it is used for the person who speaks in an incomprehensible language
It's time for us to pull our caravan. But as we come until here, it is not right to leave Garghabazar without looking at the statue that Ilkin pointed out. Of course, it is risky, but what to do it is interesting.
For going to the square where the statue erected, we have to go through the place covered with completely autumn leaves. We are careful to step on autumn leaves we do not what is under them. Luckily, our guide opens a pave for us by checking the autumn leaves.
In the distance we see a helmet left by an Armenian soldier. Our guide said that there was a body of an Armenian soldier, it has been handed over, the helmet belongs to him.
-Was here a battle too?
-What? Each inch of Fuzuli was taken by battle, broter,- Our guide by clearing the autumns with his foot, opens a way- Step on where I step on.
Finally, crossing the Sirat bridge we reach nearby the monument. This is a bust made of concrete on a high column-pedestal. From the position of the monument, it can be assumed that it is a military statue. The place of the plaque on the columnar pedestal is also empty, it is unknown to whom it belongs.
But then we learned that the monument belongs to Bolshevik Bunyad Sardarov.
..... we came
The song of birds is heard somewhere. Frogs are roosting in a nearby lake. It is a wonderful sight. There is nothing left to end such quiet, lonely evenings of Gargabazar, this ancient village, which was always busy
The statue of Fuzuli, then Shah Abbas inn, Haji Giyasaddin mosque and tomb..
It was a fruitful day. Probably, archaeologists are also satisfied after the successful findings.
We return with empty, lonely roads of Fuzuli, where occasionally only cars with special permisson run. We accidentally turned on radio. We would not think that Azerbaijani radio can broadcast in these plains in these mountains; first the sound of advertisments is heard, then the song rises. How beautiful that our radio broadcasting here! For the moment this make us to forget that Karabakh was kept under occupation for 30 years. Never before radio seems so native to me. My heart rejoices. We turn on the sound fully with joy. It is Adalat Shukurov..
We feel good, we dance, sing, we even sing by changing the words of the song: Aghdam, Fuzuli, Jabrayil, Gubadli, Zangilan, kalbajar, Lachin, Shusha... we came.
We will not go anywhere anymore!
(to be continued)
You can read more: Memoirs of an officer, the Black Stone Shrine, the destroyed statue of Sabir Ahmadli's brother, an interview with a soldier who became famous for playing the piano as a drum, and the current state of the "Ohanyan Wall" trusted by Armenians.